How does yarn twist affect fabric properties?
Yarn twist plays a crucial role in determining the texture, strength, appearance, and performance of the fabric made from that yarn. The twist refers to the number of turns per unit length in the yarn, which can significantly impact its characteristics. There are two types of twist: S-twist (clockwise) and Z-twist (counterclockwise), and the degree of twist can be categorized as low, medium, or high. Here’s how yarn twist affects fabric properties:
1. Strength and Durability:
- Higher Twist: A higher twist increases the cohesion between fibers in the yarn, making the yarn stronger and more durable. Fabrics made from high-twist yarns tend to have greater resistance to abrasion and wear.
- Lower Twist: Low-twist yarns are weaker and more prone to breaking, resulting in fabrics that may be less durable but softer and more pliable.
2. Texture and Softness:
- Low Twist: Yarns with a low twist tend to be softer and more flexible. Fabrics made from low-twist yarns, like some fine cotton or soft wool fabrics, feel smoother and more comfortable against the skin.
- High Twist: High-twist yarns create a firmer, more textured surface. These fabrics tend to feel crisper or have a more rigid texture, which can be desirable in structured garments like suits or trousers.
3. Elasticity and Stretch:
- High Twist: Yarns with a high twist generally have less stretch because the twist locks the fibers tightly together. This can lead to fabrics that retain their shape and do not stretch easily.
- Low Twist: Low-twist yarns tend to be more elastic and flexible, offering fabrics that have more stretch and are better suited for garments requiring comfort and movement, like activewear.
4. Luster and Shine:
- High Twist: High-twist yarns often have a more lustrous appearance because the twist reflects light differently. Fabrics made from high-twist yarns, like silk or satin, often appear shinier.
- Low Twist: Low-twist yarns usually have a matte or duller finish, as the fibers don’t reflect light as much. This can create fabrics that have a more natural or casual appearance.
5. Appearance and Drapability:
- High Twist: High-twist yarns tend to create a more compact, structured fabric, which results in fabrics that hold their shape well. This makes them ideal for tailored garments or fabrics that need a crisp finish, such as dress shirts and blazers.
- Low Twist: Fabrics made from low-twist yarns are softer and more drapable. These fabrics are ideal for garments that require flexibility and fluidity, such as flowy dresses and loose-fitting tops.
6. Pilling Resistance:
- High Twist: Yarns with higher twist are typically more resistant to pilling because the fibers are more tightly bound together, reducing friction between individual fibers that could cause pilling.
- Low Twist: Yarns with low twist are more prone to pilling because the fibers are looser and can more easily rub against each other, leading to the formation of small balls of fiber on the fabric’s surface.
7. Fabric Sheen and Surface Texture:
- High Twist: The high twist causes the yarn to be more compact and smoother, leading to a more refined surface texture. This results in fabrics with a polished, smooth appearance, often preferred in formal or high-end apparel.
- Low Twist: The lower twist leads to a softer and fuzzier texture, often giving a more natural, matte finish to the fabric. This is common in fabrics used for casual wear or garments designed for comfort.
8. Shrinkage:
- High Twist: High-twist yarns may exhibit less shrinkage after washing because the twist keeps the fibers in place.
- Low Twist: Low-twist yarns are more prone to shrinkage after washing since the looser structure allows the fibers to contract and shift more easily.
Summary:
- High Twist: Yarns with high twist create stronger, firmer, more durable fabrics that are often more resistant to pilling and shrinkage, with a more structured appearance and reduced elasticity.
- Low Twist: Yarns with low twist create softer, more elastic fabrics with better drapability, more comfort, and increased susceptibility to pilling and shrinkage.
